Train Stories #8: The Boy in Blue

“I am a rock. I am an island.” -Simon & Garfunkel

Everything about him was blue – from the frame of his glasses to the sad, doe-eyed look in his eyes.

When riding a local train recently from Naoetsu to Namerikawa – about a two-hour journey – a boy dressed in nearly all blue sat in the seat diagonally from me.  I was riding the train with my sister, who was visiting me in Japan for the first time.  For the first part of our journey, we were the only two passengers in the car and after talking for a bit, my sister rested her eyes.  As she slept, I stared out the window, beginning to daydream about the future, until the boy in blue got on the train at Itoigawa, a town of about 48,000 people in southern Niigata prefecture.

I had never seen someone wearing so many shades of blue at once before.

He wore blue jeans, blue socks and a striped blue-white collared shirt.  He carried a blue North Face book bag and wore a purple watch.  Dangling from his book bag was a small teddy bear charm.  A few minutes after boarding the train, he stretched his legs up on the seat in front of him and took out some paper.  Squinting and rubbing his forehead, he stared at the graphs on the paper with a diligent intensity.

After a few minutes of studying, his eyes slowly shifted to the window.  It was dark outside, and we sometimes went through tunnels, which muffled the sound in the train and caused some of the doors to violently shake back and forth.  But after passing through a tunnel, we could occasionally see the faint city lights glowing from homes and shops outside.

He looked about 18-19 and was probably a first-year university student.  He reminded me of many high-school aged students I see in my Japanese town.  They are constantly studying on trains, even on the weekends.  They joke and laugh when with their friends, texting on their cell phones and teasing one another about sports and girls.  But when alone, their disposition changes to that of a lone wolf.  They zone off and listen to their mp3 player and read a textbook or worksheet in hand.

I wondered what the boy in blue was thinking.  Like so many other Japanese young men, his fortress of solitude seemed impenetrable.He left the train sometime before we got to Toyama.  He moved so quietly that I can’t even tell you what stop he got off at.

How the JET Program Changed Me

My time with the Japan Exchange and Teaching (JET) Program is coming to an end in exactly two months (sniffles!) and I have been spending a lot of time contemplating how the program has changed me, why JET is worthwhile and also how it could be improved. 

 If you’re not familiar with JET, it is one of the largest cultural exchange programs in the world and is run by three Japanese government ministries.  Started in 1987, JET “is aimed at promoting grass-roots international exchange between Japan and other nations.”  The program welcomed 4,330 participants from 39 countries in 2011 to work as either Assistant Language Teachers (ALTs), my current position, Coordinators for International Relations (CIRs) or the less-common Sports Exchange Advisors (SEAs). 

Participants sign a one-year contract, usually beginning in late July or August, and decide on a year-to-year basis if they want to renew their contract.  JETs can be placed in large metropolises (though Tokyo is rare), suburbs or more likely the countryside (where I live), staying for a maximum of five years if they are in agreement with their local employers.

More than 50,000 people from more than 50 different countries have participated in the JET Program since its inception.

 As part of a new series about JET life, I will be sharing my reflections in the form of Top 3 lists.  I recently had a similar conversation with my friend and colleague Jon Dao for his podcast series, Discussions with Dao.  You can listen to our conversation online here.  My inaugural post is about how I have changed since coming on the JET Program.

 Top 3 Ways the JET Program Changed Me

Me in my new home of Namerikawa, Japan in August 2010, a few weeks after I first arrived in Japan with the JET Program.

1) A Changed View of America – Living in the countryside of Japan has altered my view of America, my home country, for the better and for the worse.  Now more than ever, I really look at America’s diversity in awe.  There are certainly still big problems in America with racial and economic inequality that should not be ignored, but America celebrates diversity in a way that Japan never will.  A person who is not Japanese will likely never be fully integrated into Japanese society, and there are serious problems with discrimination here that I don’t think will ever be fully addressed.  However, with that said, Japan is a very peaceful society, and I think the younger generation is becoming more open to other cultures as travel to other countries is becoming more popular.  Yes, there is still terrible discrimination, some of it violent, but by and large, life in Japan is very non-violent and serene.  It’s common here to have your wallet or iPhone returned to you if you lost it.  In comparison, in my hometown of Chicago, you risk getting killed if you get in the way of a robber.  And in America, where violence consumes many, you are 128 times more likely to get killed with a firearm than in Japan, according to this interesting crime rate comparison from NationMaster.

2) An Interest in Asian Culture & Travel – I did not have a strong interest in Asian culture prior to coming to Japan and to be honest, I was rather ignorant to many aspects of Japanese culture.  The first time I visited Japan in 2009 I asked my friend to explain the meaning of the word kanji.  It’s three years later and I can read katakana, hiragana and some kanji  (the three writing systems of Japanese).  I can also explain the geography of Japan and know about its history, though there is still so much I want to learn. Being in Japan for this time has also allowed me to travel to other parts of Southeast Asia and learn so much about many other rich cultures, including that of South Korea, Vietnam and Cambodia.  I never considered travel a hobby until recently, and I hope to continue to travel much more after my time with JET ends.  I even plan to explore my hometown of Chicago more when I am back.  To quote Mark Twain, “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime.”

3) A New Life Perspective – When I applied for the JET Program, I was 99 percent certain that I would only stay a year.  Beyond that seemed foolish and not a wise career move unless I wanted to become a teacher.  After much debate, I decided to stay a second year and have no regrets.  I had to decide in February if I wanted to stay a third year, and saying no was honestly more difficult than I could have ever imagined.  I sometimes have regrets about my decision simply because I feel very comfortable here and it will be hard to let go of all the friendships I have made.  But I’ve learned from JET that letting the wind blow and take you places you never expected to go is a wonderful feeling.  I certainly don’t want to be directionless the rest of my life, but I’m happy that I decided to explore for two years without letting the pressures of finding a “real” job get in the way.  You’re only young once, and I want to use my 20s to saunter meaningfully around this wonderful world.

I have JET to thank for this newfound outlook. どうもありがとうございます。

Slowly Becoming an Instagram Junkie

I’ve been playing a lot these days with Instagram, the popular photo sharing program recently acquired by Facebook.  I’m usually not one for gimmicky iPhone apps, but I must say that I enjoy exploring what I can do using one of Instagram’s 16 digital filters.  Best of all, the app is free and makes it easy to share pics and follow other photographers.  Here are some of my favorite photos that I have taken with Instagram.  You can follow me on Instagram @lulubellphoto.

Orix Buffaloes baseball game at Kyocera Dome Osaka

Tokyo skyline from Mori Tower

Shibuya, Tokyo just after sunset

Gion District of Kyoto

Sakura in Takaoka

Miyajima deer

Floating torii gate in Miyajima

Namerikawa sunset

The road to my junior high school (Hayatsuki) in Namerikawa

Train Stories #7: The Woman in the Black Hat

Farmers in Namerikawa, Japan

It is a bit self-indulgent of me, but I’ve been worrying a lot recently about getting older and the ending of my youth. I turned 28 in March, and of course I have so much more to look forward to in life.  I feel too young to be worrying about mortgage payments, changing diapers and other heavy life decisions. I’m happy to be free at the moment, but I also feel too old to be floating through life, partying every night like it’s college and avoiding any sort of contemplation of what I want to accomplish in life and how to make that happen.

I’ve never been one for heavy drinking or much partying, but I enjoy the freedom of time and having my 20s to figure things out and explore. In two years, I won’t have my 20s to fall back on. I can’t say for certain, but I imagine I’ll likely feel the pressures of starting a family and settling down in a few years. I don’t know what exactly I’ll do in August after my time on the JET Programme ends, but I hope I continue to challenge myself and think positively about life.

I think I will always view everyday as a gift, but I have some anxiety about the future because life just seems so much more challenging and scary as you get older.  With each passing year, you have to make more difficult decisions and think carefully about your health and others around you.

So when I see elderly women in my Japanese town– and there are many– I always look at them in awe. They are survivors, struggling and ultimately overcoming the many trials of life, including health scares and the death of loved ones. They still stand tall, though often with hunched backs from years of labor on rice fields. If you look closely at their hands, you can see their swollen knuckles from years of work. They continue to bike around town and are active members in the community. They are proud of their accomplishments and their memories, and cling to them everyday.

Recently, when waiting for an early evening train to the nearby town Uozu, I stood on the platform looking at the mountains and thinking when spring would come. Out of nowhere, a woman who looked to be in her 80s approached me and pointed in the distance to my left. She wore a large black hat, green coat and carried a maroon tote bag. As she pointed in the distance, she said something in Japanese I couldn’t understand. I nodded and smiled because that’s all I could do. In Japanese, I asked her if she lives in Namerikawa.  “I’m 83 years old,” she responded in Japanese. Either my Japanese is more awful than I realized (very likely), or she didn’t hear me properly and/or wanted to tell me her age.

We both got on the same train car and she sat next to two young Japanese girls in high school.  Packed between high school students and other elderly Japanese, I decided to stand for the ride. The girls were giggling and pointing to purikura (funny photo booth photos). The woman said something that made them laugh even more and the girls showed her more pictures. Still in her hat and clutching her bag in her lap, she never stopped smiling for the entire train ride. I waved goodbye to her when I came to my stop.  She politely nodded back.

As I looked back at her one last time, I saw a vibrant and confident woman – a woman I hope to be like when I’m in my 80s.

Three Little Things (Spring Edition!)

It’s official – After another brutal, snow-filled winter, spring has finally come to Toyama!  Here are three little things that make Spring my favorite season in Japan.

1. Sakura

Sakura (cherry blossom trees), which start blooming as early as January in the far southern islands of Japan or as late as May in northern Hokkaido, came into full bloom in Toyama in mid-April.   うれしいですよ!I enjoyed a hanami party in Takaoka’s famed Kojo Park with some friends on a fine Sunday afternoon.

2. “Photo art” necklaces by Kurico

I bought these “photo art” necklaces by Japanese designer KURICO at the Toyama Art Fair in March, keeping one for myself and giving another to my sister for her birthday.  Even in the coldest of times, the images of flowers and cherry blossoms will remind me that Spring always comes.

3. Marathons

For me, spring in Japan means training time after being cooped up indoors for far too long.  Although I won’t be competing in my first 10K just yet, I’m excited to run my fourth 5K in Japan in late May.  This is a picture from the Uozu Shinkirou Marathon that I ran with my sister in April.  I ran quite slowly, but my sister came in 11th place!

Recent Musings

すみません! I have been traveling a lot in the past two weeks because my sister and two friends visited me in Japan, so I have not had a chance to blog.  But I have much to write about my travels.  In the meantime, I would like to share some recent(ish) articles I have written for various publications.  Please read them if you are interested.

 Kenrokuen: A Park for Winter’s End

Kathleen Edward’s Voyageur: An Album for Winter

Uozu’s Buried Forest Museum: Life in an Underworld

Toyama’s Snow  Wall: Touring Meters and Meters of Snow

Top Five Things Learned from the Returning JETs Conference

Making Action: An Interview with Jonathan Dao

Train Stories # 6: The Fallen Glove

Japanese people are some of the most courteous people I have ever met. Customer service here is a way life and the standard compares to no other country I have visited. This ideal extends beyond stores, too. Rarely have I met a Japanese person who won’t go out of his or her way to help me. If I need help finding a bus, there are dozens of trustworthy people I know I can ask on the street.

With that said, however, being on trains and in crowded train stations isn’t where their courtesy shines. I went to Tokyo for a meeting recently and was reminded what it’s like to be packed in a train like a sardine. In train stations people brushed so quickly behind me that I felt dizzy. Everyone is in their own world, listening to music and clutching their newly-purchased designer items like a mother does her baby.  In Chiba, I witnessed a mad rush to the train where two young women slammed their bodies into the train like popsicle sticks. It’s likely that they had to make the train or would have been late for work.

Even in the countryside, where you’re much less likely to encounter packed train stations anything like those in Tokyo, people tend to walk without much regard to those around them. Every time I look around the train, Japanese people are on their cellphones, playing games or reading emails.

A Fallen Glove

So when I saw a woman lose her glove in Takaoka Station, the second largest city in Toyama, I didn’t want to stay shut inside a bubble. I noticed the woman lose her glove as I was sitting in the waiting area. I stared at the glove for a solid minute, thinking of what to tell the woman in Japanese.  She was now sitting a few seats from me and was looking at her phone. Everyone else around me was either napping or glued to their cellphones. Not wanting to ignore it, I gently picked the glove up and carried it over to her. She looked to be about 60. She was elegant in a brown suede coat and reminded me of my mother a bit. “Sumimasen,” (excuse me) I said. She looked up surprised and instantly uttered a stream of “arigatous” (thank you).

A few moments later, she got up to leave. Before she left the station, she looked back at me and bowed twice.

It was a simple gesture of gratitude, and it made my day.