The Fleeting Beauty of Japanese Cherry Blossoms

Spring is my favorite time in Japan, mainly because for two fleeting  weeks, cherry blossoms emerge, luring the young and old outside to appreciate Japanese nature at its finest.  Although cherry blossom season is over in Matsuyama, traces of fallen blossoms remain on the ground, reminding me to appreciate things or people who won’t always be around.  Below are some of my favorite photos from this year’s hanami season in Ehime.

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A couple relax under a cherry blossom tree along Ishite River, Matsuyama.

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The elderly enjoy viewing the cherry blossoms.

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Matsuyama’s famous ferris wheel as seen from atop Matsuyama Castle Park.

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石手川公園松山 (Ishitegakoen train station, Matsuyama).

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Dogo Park.

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The view of the cherry blossoms along Ishite River Park as the sun sets.

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Matsuyama Castle.

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A man rests on a bench after biking along Ishite River Park, Matsuyama.

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Nanrakuen Garden in Uwajima, Ehime.

Remembering Dreams: An Interview with Filmmaker Regge Life

I wrote an article for Japan Today about a new documentary on the two American victims killed in the tsunami two years ago.  The film, Live Your Dream: The Taylor Anderson Story, is directed by Regge Life, who was recently in Tokyo premiering the story.

Anderson, an American teacher living in Ishinomaki, Miyagi Prefecture, was the first known American victim in the disaster.  The film also includes memories of Monty Dickson, an American teacher from Alaska who was killed by the tsunami in Rikuzentakata, Iwate Prefecture.  Both teachers were Assistant Language Teachers (ALTs) with the Japan Exchange and Teaching Programme (JET).

Even though I did not know Taylor or Monty, I felt personally connected to their stories, as I was also an ALT with the JET Programme living in a coastal town during the time of 3/11.  Just like Monty and Taylor, I rotated between several elementary schools and a junior high school; the only difference was that I lived in the northwest of Japan, which was luckily unharmed in the disaster.

My thoughts continue to be with both Taylor’s and Monty’s families, and I hope this film inspires others to live their dreams, just as Taylor and Monty were during their time in Japan.

Life was a wonderful person to interview, and as a storyteller for more than two decades who has worked on numerous Japanese projects, he has a particularly unique perspective on Japanese culture.

You can read the article here, and watch an excerpt from the film below.

In a Moment

Before March 11, 2013 comes to a close in Japan in a few moments, I wanted to post a quick message.  I spent today — the second anniversary of the great earthquake and tsunami that struck the northeast coast of Japan — at work completing my normal duties.

But I was followed by a dark shadow, remembering the thousands of lives lost in a single moment, and the many thousands more still coping with pain, disaster and loneliness.

I’ve probably posted this before, but I’m once again reminded of a column the great Chicago journalist Mike Royko wrote after the sudden death of his wife Carol.  Normally boisterous and unapologetic, Royko wrote so tenderly of sudden loss and death this time.

“I could go on, but it’s too personal. And I’m afraid that it hurts. Simply put, she was the best person I ever knew. And while the phrase “his better half” is a cliche, with us it was a truth.

Anyway, I’ll be back. And soon, I hope, because I miss you, too, my friends.

In the meantime, do her and me a favor. If there’s someone you love but haven’t said so in a while, say it now. Always, always, say it now.”

Three Little Things: What I’m Reading

Below are three articles that kept me still for at least 20 minutes – a difficult challenge for my restless mind. If you have the time, these stories are all well-worth the read.

1. NZealand’s Slow Quake Recovery Shows Rich Struggle  (Associated Press)

Twelve Toyama students, including my town’s newly retired high school principal, were killed in the Christchurch quake two years ago.  The New Zealand quake was the first time I felt personally connected to a natural disaster; and I still can’t fathom the destruction that came to Japan a few months later on March 11, 2011.  Here, the AP’s Rod McGuirk shows how bureaucracy can slow relief aid, even in wealthy countries like New Zealand and Japan.

2. Chernobyl, My Primeval, Teeming, Irradiated Eden (Outside Magazine)

Henry Shukman journeyed inside Ukraine’s no man’s land, 25 years after a reactor in the Chernobyl power station blew up, leaking radiation up to 10 times more than what was released in Hiroshima

3. Lights Out: What SF, NYC, And Tokyo Would Look Like Under Montana’s Stars (Fast Company Design)

What the skylines of Tokyo, Shanghai, New York, and more would look like under Montana’s stars — beautiful and eerie.

My Second Year in Japan – A Photo Essay

Per my blogging tradition, below is a collection of 12 photos representing my 2012.  In general, it was a good year, but also a challenging and emotional one, where I said many goodbyes, changed jobs and moved to a different part of Japan.  I wish everyone a very prosperous and healthy 2013. あけましておめでとうございます!

JANUARY

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Toyama is a part of Japan’s 雪国(snow country) and the winter brings days and nights of endless snow.  This is a picture of a frozen window at Hayatsuki Junior High School, where I worked as an ALT for two years until July.  I love the imprints from my students’ fingerprints.

FEBRUARY

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One of my favorite places in the Toyama region is Gokayama, a small village tucked away in the mountains full of “gassho” style homes.  These traditional houses are all built with a steep thatched roof said to resemble clasping praying hands (and protecting the homes from the heavy snowfall).  On certain nights in the winter, the village is lit up with candles, creating a mystical winter wonderland for everyone to walk around and appreciate the beauty winter brings.

MARCH

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Now I know what it feels like to get married! (Sort of).  雛祭り, or hinamatsuri/Doll’s Festival, is celebrated every year in Japan on March 3.  On this day, people pray for young girls’ growth and happiness. Several dolls dressed in traditional Heian period clothing, representing the emperor, empress and their court, are often put on display. I was asked to dress up like a doll with my friend Jon, a fellow ALT in Toyama-ken.  We walked around the festival greeting people and taking pictures as if we were the emperor and empress! 楽しかったですよ!

APRIL

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No year in Japan is complete without seeing sakura, or cherry blossom trees.  In late April, my friend Jenson and I biked to a park bordering Uozu and Namerikawa for the first time just as dusk was approaching.  The blossoming sakuras and lit lanterns created a magical, very peaceful, atmosphere – a welcome gift after a long winter.

MAY

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My sister and two friends came to Japan during Golden Week, so I spent my spring vacation showing them around several “must-see” areas of Japan, including Tokyo, Kyoto and of course, my former stomping ground Toyama.  My sister and I both snapped a picture of this young boy running gleefully through Kyoto’s Fushimi-Inari Shrine, one of my favorite places in Kyoto. かわいいですね。

JUNE

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I finally saw a geisha (or a woman dressed as a geisha).  I love the stare this woman is giving to the person next to her.  I saw her at the Kanazawa Hyakumangoku festival.

JULY

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I spent my July saying goodbye to Namerikawa, the seaside town I lived in for two years.  I took this picture while biking home from one of my elementary schools, likely teary-eyed at the thought of leaving the view of the Tateyama Mountain Range and open freedom of seeing rice fields upon rice fields.

AUGUST

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I spent most of my August in Hiroshima, studying at Hiroshima City University as part of the Hiroshima & Peace Program.  On August 6, the 67th anniversary of the atomic bombing, thousands of people gathered along the riverfront and set afloat paper lanterns in memory of ancestors, friends, and other loved ones lost – not only on that fateful day, but in wars and tragedies across many nations.  I lit one in honor of all those who lost their lives in war, as well as my paternal grandmother, whose life story inspired me to apply for the program.

SEPTEMBER

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I moved to Matsuyama on Japan’s Shikoku Island in late August for a new job.  Matsuyama is the largest city in the otherwise rural Ehime Prefecture, and like Toyama, a kind of hidden gem in Japan.  This is a view of the city from the top of a hill in Dogo Park.

OCTOBER

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Mt. Ishizuchi, in Ehime, is the tallest mountain in western Japan.  I climbed it with a group of my adult students on a lovely October day.  The rugged landscape from the top was awe-inspiring, and made me want to climb many more mountains before I leave Japan.

NOVEMBER

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Shimonada Station in Iyo City, Ehime, is the said to be the closest train station to the ocean in Japan.  One of my adult students, who told me this is his favorite place in Japan, took me here on a fall day to photograph the sunset.

DECEMBER

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The holidays are sometimes the times when I feel homesick the most.  I haven’t been home for a family Christmas in three years, and I miss my mother’s home-cooking and all the other comfort that comes with being around family.  Thankfully, this year, I spent a day with my summer host family in Hiroshima.  We walked around Hiroshima Dreamination, a spectacular collection of illuminations that recreates a fairytale world for children and adults.

Train Stories #10: The Girl Who Looked Up

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The Girl Who Looked Up

With a challenging new job and new city in Japan to establish myself in, it’s been a tough few months. I like many things about Matsuyama City and Shikoku, but some days, I find myself thinking about Toyama and all that I left behind ( friends, people who I genuinely loved, a good job where I was respected). There are days when I think the people in Namerikawa, the seaside town I lived in for two years, were simply nicer (though I’ve met great people in both places). It seems Toyama residents smiled at me more, asked about my life and were sincerely concerned if I felt sick. They also talked to me on trains more.

Most days and nights in Matsuyama, I’m alone in my apartment after work with too much to think about, sometimes cursing myself for perhaps making a poor career decision and sometimes cursing a country that I love but also find so frustrating.

So when a young girl who was no older than eight looked at me on the train one Saturday evening after work, I was somewhat surprised. With innocent brown eyes and a pink book bag, the young girl smiled at me as everyone else stayed in their own world.  Suddenly, any contempt I felt for my new situation melted. Something in her eyes spoke to me, seemingly saying, “I will speak English well someday, so I can talk to people like you.” I thought of my young students, some of whom can be really challenging but others of whom I feel privileged to teach. They try so hard after a full day of school to speak a foreign language very different from their mother tongue. At their age, I couldn’t even tell you how to say hello in Japanese, or any other language besides French or Spanish perhaps.

I was a little worried for the girl because she was on the train without a parent or friends, but it’s surprisingly common for young children to take trains alone in Japan, probably due to the fact that crime rates are extraordinarily low here. Still, I felt a little sorry for her and smiled back at her. She looked down as if she was a little embarrassed, but I could see the faint trace of a smile beginning to form under her cheeks.

I walked back to my apartment alone, feeling lucky to have taken the risk of moving to Japan to teach for a few years. I don’t think I want to be an English teacher in Japan for much longer, but these little experiences always make it worthwhile.

Three Little Things: Japanese Cafe Edition

It’s been awhile since I posted “Three Little Things.”  Autumn is in full swing here in Matsuyama, and one of my favorite things to do in Japan (and any place, really) when it gets colder is sit in a cafe — studying, writing or watching the people around me talk and laugh.  There’s really nothing more comforting than a warm drink, a sweet and time on your hands to let your mind wander.  Luckily, Japan has some great cafes to observe Japanese culture, or to simply lose yourself in someone else’s story.

Halloween donut at Mister Donut’s in Matsuyama, Japan.

1. Mister Donut (ミスタードーナツ) is a popular chain cafe very similar to America’s Dunkin’ Donuts, only with donuts that are much tastier and not saturated with sugar.   This was a special Halloween pumpkin donut that I gobbled down while studying Japanese.

A latte and chocolate croissant at Chocoro Cafe (チョコロ カフェ) Japan in Matsuyama City, Shikoku.

2. I’ve walked by multiple Choco Cro/St. Marc cafes in Japan but never had the opportunity to try one of the company’s delicious chocolate croissants until this week.  The smells inside the cafe would make anyone want to sit there for hours, and my croissant was delivered to me fresh from the oven, its buttery crust the perfect balance of flaky and soft.

Coffee art in Toyama, Japan.

3. In Japan, many baristas seem to master “coffee art” – drawing pictures using foam in a coffee mug.  This cute picture of a rabbit is from my order at Jack Rabbit Slim’s Cafe (カフェ ジャックラビットスリムス) in Toyama, my former home in Japan.