Tag Archives: japan

The Fleeting Beauty of Japanese Cherry Blossoms

Spring is my favorite time in Japan, mainly because for two fleeting  weeks, cherry blossoms emerge, luring the young and old outside to appreciate Japanese nature at its finest.  Although cherry blossom season is over in Matsuyama, traces of fallen blossoms remain on the ground, reminding me to appreciate things or people who won’t always be around.  Below are some of my favorite photos from this year’s hanami season in Ehime.

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A couple relax under a cherry blossom tree along Ishite River, Matsuyama.

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The elderly enjoy viewing the cherry blossoms.

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Matsuyama’s famous ferris wheel as seen from atop Matsuyama Castle Park.

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石手川公園松山 (Ishitegakoen train station, Matsuyama).

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Dogo Park.

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The view of the cherry blossoms along Ishite River Park as the sun sets.

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Matsuyama Castle.

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A man rests on a bench after biking along Ishite River Park, Matsuyama.

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Nanrakuen Garden in Uwajima, Ehime.

Three Little Things: What I’m Reading

Below are three articles that kept me still for at least 20 minutes – a difficult challenge for my restless mind. If you have the time, these stories are all well-worth the read.

1. NZealand’s Slow Quake Recovery Shows Rich Struggle  (Associated Press)

Twelve Toyama students, including my town’s newly retired high school principal, were killed in the Christchurch quake two years ago.  The New Zealand quake was the first time I felt personally connected to a natural disaster; and I still can’t fathom the destruction that came to Japan a few months later on March 11, 2011.  Here, the AP’s Rod McGuirk shows how bureaucracy can slow relief aid, even in wealthy countries like New Zealand and Japan.

2. Chernobyl, My Primeval, Teeming, Irradiated Eden (Outside Magazine)

Henry Shukman journeyed inside Ukraine’s no man’s land, 25 years after a reactor in the Chernobyl power station blew up, leaking radiation up to 10 times more than what was released in Hiroshima

3. Lights Out: What SF, NYC, And Tokyo Would Look Like Under Montana’s Stars (Fast Company Design)

What the skylines of Tokyo, Shanghai, New York, and more would look like under Montana’s stars — beautiful and eerie.

My Second Year in Japan – A Photo Essay

Per my blogging tradition, below is a collection of 12 photos representing my 2012.  In general, it was a good year, but also a challenging and emotional one, where I said many goodbyes, changed jobs and moved to a different part of Japan.  I wish everyone a very prosperous and healthy 2013. あけましておめでとうございます!

JANUARY

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Toyama is a part of Japan’s 雪国(snow country) and the winter brings days and nights of endless snow.  This is a picture of a frozen window at Hayatsuki Junior High School, where I worked as an ALT for two years until July.  I love the imprints from my students’ fingerprints.

FEBRUARY

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One of my favorite places in the Toyama region is Gokayama, a small village tucked away in the mountains full of “gassho” style homes.  These traditional houses are all built with a steep thatched roof said to resemble clasping praying hands (and protecting the homes from the heavy snowfall).  On certain nights in the winter, the village is lit up with candles, creating a mystical winter wonderland for everyone to walk around and appreciate the beauty winter brings.

MARCH

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Now I know what it feels like to get married! (Sort of).  雛祭り, or hinamatsuri/Doll’s Festival, is celebrated every year in Japan on March 3.  On this day, people pray for young girls’ growth and happiness. Several dolls dressed in traditional Heian period clothing, representing the emperor, empress and their court, are often put on display. I was asked to dress up like a doll with my friend Jon, a fellow ALT in Toyama-ken.  We walked around the festival greeting people and taking pictures as if we were the emperor and empress! 楽しかったですよ!

APRIL

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No year in Japan is complete without seeing sakura, or cherry blossom trees.  In late April, my friend Jenson and I biked to a park bordering Uozu and Namerikawa for the first time just as dusk was approaching.  The blossoming sakuras and lit lanterns created a magical, very peaceful, atmosphere – a welcome gift after a long winter.

MAY

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My sister and two friends came to Japan during Golden Week, so I spent my spring vacation showing them around several “must-see” areas of Japan, including Tokyo, Kyoto and of course, my former stomping ground Toyama.  My sister and I both snapped a picture of this young boy running gleefully through Kyoto’s Fushimi-Inari Shrine, one of my favorite places in Kyoto. かわいいですね。

JUNE

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I finally saw a geisha (or a woman dressed as a geisha).  I love the stare this woman is giving to the person next to her.  I saw her at the Kanazawa Hyakumangoku festival.

JULY

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I spent my July saying goodbye to Namerikawa, the seaside town I lived in for two years.  I took this picture while biking home from one of my elementary schools, likely teary-eyed at the thought of leaving the view of the Tateyama Mountain Range and open freedom of seeing rice fields upon rice fields.

AUGUST

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I spent most of my August in Hiroshima, studying at Hiroshima City University as part of the Hiroshima & Peace Program.  On August 6, the 67th anniversary of the atomic bombing, thousands of people gathered along the riverfront and set afloat paper lanterns in memory of ancestors, friends, and other loved ones lost – not only on that fateful day, but in wars and tragedies across many nations.  I lit one in honor of all those who lost their lives in war, as well as my paternal grandmother, whose life story inspired me to apply for the program.

SEPTEMBER

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I moved to Matsuyama on Japan’s Shikoku Island in late August for a new job.  Matsuyama is the largest city in the otherwise rural Ehime Prefecture, and like Toyama, a kind of hidden gem in Japan.  This is a view of the city from the top of a hill in Dogo Park.

OCTOBER

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Mt. Ishizuchi, in Ehime, is the tallest mountain in western Japan.  I climbed it with a group of my adult students on a lovely October day.  The rugged landscape from the top was awe-inspiring, and made me want to climb many more mountains before I leave Japan.

NOVEMBER

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Shimonada Station in Iyo City, Ehime, is the said to be the closest train station to the ocean in Japan.  One of my adult students, who told me this is his favorite place in Japan, took me here on a fall day to photograph the sunset.

DECEMBER

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The holidays are sometimes the times when I feel homesick the most.  I haven’t been home for a family Christmas in three years, and I miss my mother’s home-cooking and all the other comfort that comes with being around family.  Thankfully, this year, I spent a day with my summer host family in Hiroshima.  We walked around Hiroshima Dreamination, a spectacular collection of illuminations that recreates a fairytale world for children and adults.

Train Stories #10: The Girl Who Looked Up

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The Girl Who Looked Up

With a challenging new job and new city in Japan to establish myself in, it’s been a tough few months. I like many things about Matsuyama City and Shikoku, but some days, I find myself thinking about Toyama and all that I left behind ( friends, people who I genuinely loved, a good job where I was respected). There are days when I think the people in Namerikawa, the seaside town I lived in for two years, were simply nicer (though I’ve met great people in both places). It seems Toyama residents smiled at me more, asked about my life and were sincerely concerned if I felt sick. They also talked to me on trains more.

Most days and nights in Matsuyama, I’m alone in my apartment after work with too much to think about, sometimes cursing myself for perhaps making a poor career decision and sometimes cursing a country that I love but also find so frustrating.

So when a young girl who was no older than eight looked at me on the train one Saturday evening after work, I was somewhat surprised. With innocent brown eyes and a pink book bag, the young girl smiled at me as everyone else stayed in their own world.  Suddenly, any contempt I felt for my new situation melted. Something in her eyes spoke to me, seemingly saying, “I will speak English well someday, so I can talk to people like you.” I thought of my young students, some of whom can be really challenging but others of whom I feel privileged to teach. They try so hard after a full day of school to speak a foreign language very different from their mother tongue. At their age, I couldn’t even tell you how to say hello in Japanese, or any other language besides French or Spanish perhaps.

I was a little worried for the girl because she was on the train without a parent or friends, but it’s surprisingly common for young children to take trains alone in Japan, probably due to the fact that crime rates are extraordinarily low here. Still, I felt a little sorry for her and smiled back at her. She looked down as if she was a little embarrassed, but I could see the faint trace of a smile beginning to form under her cheeks.

I walked back to my apartment alone, feeling lucky to have taken the risk of moving to Japan to teach for a few years. I don’t think I want to be an English teacher in Japan for much longer, but these little experiences always make it worthwhile.

Three Little Things: Japanese Cafe Edition

It’s been awhile since I posted “Three Little Things.”  Autumn is in full swing here in Matsuyama, and one of my favorite things to do in Japan (and any place, really) when it gets colder is sit in a cafe — studying, writing or watching the people around me talk and laugh.  There’s really nothing more comforting than a warm drink, a sweet and time on your hands to let your mind wander.  Luckily, Japan has some great cafes to observe Japanese culture, or to simply lose yourself in someone else’s story.

Halloween donut at Mister Donut’s in Matsuyama, Japan.

1. Mister Donut (ミスタードーナツ) is a popular chain cafe very similar to America’s Dunkin’ Donuts, only with donuts that are much tastier and not saturated with sugar.   This was a special Halloween pumpkin donut that I gobbled down while studying Japanese.

A latte and chocolate croissant at Chocoro Cafe (チョコロ カフェ) Japan in Matsuyama City, Shikoku.

2. I’ve walked by multiple Choco Cro/St. Marc cafes in Japan but never had the opportunity to try one of the company’s delicious chocolate croissants until this week.  The smells inside the cafe would make anyone want to sit there for hours, and my croissant was delivered to me fresh from the oven, its buttery crust the perfect balance of flaky and soft.

Coffee art in Toyama, Japan.

3. In Japan, many baristas seem to master “coffee art” – drawing pictures using foam in a coffee mug.  This cute picture of a rabbit is from my order at Jack Rabbit Slim’s Cafe (カフェ ジャックラビットスリムス) in Toyama, my former home in Japan.

My New Home

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For the next year, I will call Matsuyama City, on Japan’s Shikoku Island, home.  One of the city’s main attractions is Matsuyama Castle, which is often considered one of Japan’s most beautiful original castles.  Constructed in the early 17th Century, the castle sits a top of a large hill, offering serene views of Matsuyama City on clear days.  I’m still getting used to life in Shikoku, the smallest of Japan’s four main islands, but I hope to share many more stories in the months to come.  I’ll also be blogging about the English language at my company’s English Website, 1 Point.

A Quick Hello

This summer has faded so quickly that I haven’t had a chance to blog as much as I had hoped.  It’s my goal to write at least one post every month, and since there are only a few hours left of this busy September, I wanted to publish a quick entry.  I moved from my sweet Namerikawa to Matsuyama City, a city of about 500,000 people on Japan’s Shikoku Island.  I’ll be working here for the next year as an EFL instructor and editor at an English conversation school / international translation company.  It’s been a challenging few weeks so far, but I hope to learn a lot.  In the meantime, a piece I wrote comparing bike riding in Japan and Chicago was recently published at Gapers Block, a webzine I frequently contributed to when I lived in Chicago.  You can read the article here.

Train Stories # 9: The Man in Rainbow

Osaka, the third largest city in Japan with a population of more than 17 million in the greater metropolitan area, has the reputation of being one of the rougher cities in Japan.  Compared to Tokyo, where millions of businessmen and woman in ubiquitous black suits and shoes ride the trains like zombies in a trance, the people of Osaka can sometimes be a little more straightforward and colorful.  It’s often said that Osaka people just like to be different.

They stand on the right side of the escalator (instead of the uniform left in Tokyo), they bump into you with uttering as many sumimasen (excuse me) and they sometimes can be a little abrasive.  The first time I ever witnessed a Japanese person shouting at someone was in Osaka’s JR Fukushima Station, where a man in casual jeans and a sweatshirt screamed at the train attendants for a good 10 minutes (he was still shouting when I boarded the train).  The train attendants just stood there without so much blinking and let the man release his energy.

An awesome hippie in Osaka

But even with that said, Osaka is still in Japan, meaning although it has a grittier vibe compared to other Japanese cities, it’s still a city brimming with people who work to death and travel to and from business in uniform fashion.  It’s a way of life everywhere in Japan.  You follow the rules.  You are on time.  You straighten your black suit or skirt and do what you are told without complaining.  Their work ethic is both admirable and maddening at times, like an entire population of people is just waiting to break free from the chains of twelve-hour per day labor.

So when I spotted a Japanese man wearing a blue baja shirt, patterned bell-bottom jeans and red shoes on an Osaka JR Loop Line train, my eyes were drawn to his colorful wardrobe.  Amid the surrounding grey of the train and passengers wearing conservative weekend clothing, he stood out like a rainbow emerging from the clouds after a rainfall.  He was probably in his early 50s and had a full head of long, stringy grey hair.  His youth was far gone in his face, but his clothes spoke another language.  The vibrant colors of his clothes seemed to scream:

I am proud of who I am!

I can’t say for certain if he thought the same thing, but I was proud of him.

Three Little Things (Rainy Season Edition)

If you visit Japan during anytime of the year, chances are very high that at least one of your pictures will look something like this:

A rainy day in Kyoto.

It rains here.  A lot. 

This is especially true in Toyama, and even more so during tsuyu (梅雨), or the rainy season, which begins in Okinawa in early May and travels its way north until mid-July.  Last week Typhoon Guchol roared its way across Japan, though luckily Toyama escaped with only some rain and mildly strong winds at night.

Here are three little things to help you get through the ame, rainy season or not.

 1.    Muji Umbrella

Muji umbrella

I’ve gone through at least five umbrellas during my two years in Japan, most falling victim to Toyama’s unyielding wind.  You can buy umbrellas almost anywhere here, including 100 Yen stores and convenient stores, but the most reliable one I have had in Japan has been from Muji. 

Muji is one of my favorite stores in Japan for its simple yet well-designed items.  Its markable umbrella ($15.95) is sturdy and chic, and you can even engrave it at some stores.

2. Say Aloha Pink Shoes

Rain shoes from Don Quijote in Osaka

When my sister visited Japan in April, we spent two weeks in almost constant rain.  On our trip, I lost a pair of shoes in Osaka and was left with my grey TOMs,  which looked great but offered zero protection in the rain.  On an aimless night in Osaka just after a downpour, we walked into a Don Quijote, a crazy busy Japanese discount store with hundreds of locations in Japan.  Think of it like a Target or Walmart but on crack and steroids.  In the sale section just past the entrance, I saw these cute pink waterproof(ish) shoes for about $7.  They’re very sporty-looking but they do the trick for rainy bike rides.  I couldn’t find a link to the shoes online, but if you’re in Japan, try the closest Don Quijote store.

3. Flipboard

A screenshot from Flipboard’s blog

There’s nothing like curling up on your bed or couch with a good book on a rainy Sunday afternoon when you have nothing else to do but open a world of imagination so different from the pitter patter outside. 

But it’s 2012 and we live in the world of Facebook, Twitter, iPhones, iPads and Kindles.  I still love paperbacks and hardcovers, but my go-to iPad application for lazy Sunday mornings is Flipboard, a social media/magazine aggregation application.  That’s tech speak for saying that the geniuses behind Flipboard scour the Internet for great stories and combine it in one easy magazine where you can “flip” through any number of topics, from business news to travel stories.  The stories spotlighted are always thought-provoking and the application’s format makes it extremely easy to browse and customize your version of Flipboard.

How the JET Program Changed Me

My time with the Japan Exchange and Teaching (JET) Program is coming to an end in exactly two months (sniffles!) and I have been spending a lot of time contemplating how the program has changed me, why JET is worthwhile and also how it could be improved. 

 If you’re not familiar with JET, it is one of the largest cultural exchange programs in the world and is run by three Japanese government ministries.  Started in 1987, JET “is aimed at promoting grass-roots international exchange between Japan and other nations.”  The program welcomed 4,330 participants from 39 countries in 2011 to work as either Assistant Language Teachers (ALTs), my current position, Coordinators for International Relations (CIRs) or the less-common Sports Exchange Advisors (SEAs). 

Participants sign a one-year contract, usually beginning in late July or August, and decide on a year-to-year basis if they want to renew their contract.  JETs can be placed in large metropolises (though Tokyo is rare), suburbs or more likely the countryside (where I live), staying for a maximum of five years if they are in agreement with their local employers.

More than 50,000 people from more than 50 different countries have participated in the JET Program since its inception.

 As part of a new series about JET life, I will be sharing my reflections in the form of Top 3 lists.  I recently had a similar conversation with my friend and colleague Jon Dao for his podcast series, Discussions with Dao.  You can listen to our conversation online here.  My inaugural post is about how I have changed since coming on the JET Program.

 Top 3 Ways the JET Program Changed Me

Me in my new home of Namerikawa, Japan in August 2010, a few weeks after I first arrived in Japan with the JET Program.

1) A Changed View of America – Living in the countryside of Japan has altered my view of America, my home country, for the better and for the worse.  Now more than ever, I really look at America’s diversity in awe.  There are certainly still big problems in America with racial and economic inequality that should not be ignored, but America celebrates diversity in a way that Japan never will.  A person who is not Japanese will likely never be fully integrated into Japanese society, and there are serious problems with discrimination here that I don’t think will ever be fully addressed.  However, with that said, Japan is a very peaceful society, and I think the younger generation is becoming more open to other cultures as travel to other countries is becoming more popular.  Yes, there is still terrible discrimination, some of it violent, but by and large, life in Japan is very non-violent and serene.  It’s common here to have your wallet or iPhone returned to you if you lost it.  In comparison, in my hometown of Chicago, you risk getting killed if you get in the way of a robber.  And in America, where violence consumes many, you are 128 times more likely to get killed with a firearm than in Japan, according to this interesting crime rate comparison from NationMaster.

2) An Interest in Asian Culture & Travel – I did not have a strong interest in Asian culture prior to coming to Japan and to be honest, I was rather ignorant to many aspects of Japanese culture.  The first time I visited Japan in 2009 I asked my friend to explain the meaning of the word kanji.  It’s three years later and I can read katakana, hiragana and some kanji  (the three writing systems of Japanese).  I can also explain the geography of Japan and know about its history, though there is still so much I want to learn. Being in Japan for this time has also allowed me to travel to other parts of Southeast Asia and learn so much about many other rich cultures, including that of South Korea, Vietnam and Cambodia.  I never considered travel a hobby until recently, and I hope to continue to travel much more after my time with JET ends.  I even plan to explore my hometown of Chicago more when I am back.  To quote Mark Twain, “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime.”

3) A New Life Perspective – When I applied for the JET Program, I was 99 percent certain that I would only stay a year.  Beyond that seemed foolish and not a wise career move unless I wanted to become a teacher.  After much debate, I decided to stay a second year and have no regrets.  I had to decide in February if I wanted to stay a third year, and saying no was honestly more difficult than I could have ever imagined.  I sometimes have regrets about my decision simply because I feel very comfortable here and it will be hard to let go of all the friendships I have made.  But I’ve learned from JET that letting the wind blow and take you places you never expected to go is a wonderful feeling.  I certainly don’t want to be directionless the rest of my life, but I’m happy that I decided to explore for two years without letting the pressures of finding a “real” job get in the way.  You’re only young once, and I want to use my 20s to saunter meaningfully around this wonderful world.

I have JET to thank for this newfound outlook. どうもありがとうございます。